Zhang Zhaohong: Looking for the earliest Chinese restaurant in Arizona's history

Zhang Zhaohong: Looking for the earliest Chinese restaurant in Arizona's history Citi Restaurant (American Kitchen) At the beginning of the 20th century, the Asian Chinese...

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Asian Chinese were already engaged in the restaurant business and opened grocery stores, but there are not many materials and even fewer photos that can be recorded about this history. According to historical data, from 1900 to 1940, there were 30 restaurants opened by Chinese in Phoenix. Currently, there are only two photos of the earliest restaurants in Alberta. One is the American Kitchen in the heart of Phoenix in 1900, run by Sing Yee, Sr. The restaurant was located on the bustling Central Street in the city and was one of the very few Chinese restaurants at the time. Mr. Yu was well versed in Chinese and English, was a good businessman, and had good relations with the political and business circles at that time. Many of the Yu family members who had just arrived in the port were taken in to work or received help. Yu Kangzhong also served as the principal of Fenie Overseas Chinese School, and during the Anti-Japanese War, he was the vice chairman of the Fenie Chinese National Salvation Support Association. Although the original location of "Citizen Restaurant" no longer exists and further protection of historical sites cannot be carried out, as the first restaurant run by Chinese, it has very important historical significance. What is even more rare is that Yu Kangzhong left a family photo, leaving precious humanistic information for the history of Chinese families in Alberta.

>"Citi Restaurant" operated by Sing Yee, Sr.

Sing Yee's family photo

Can-Can Restaurant Restaurant)

>"China Mary" and "Can-Can Restaurant"

> Another restaurant photo is the "Can-Can Restaurant" (Can-Can Restaurant) opened by Aaron (transliteration) and his wife "China Mary" (a native of Zhongshan, Guangdong) in the same era in Tombstone Town, Tucson.

Regarding the "Chinese Mary" called "China Mary" by the people of Tombstone, she was a legendary woman of the early Chinese in Alberta. Newspapers once reported that she was called the "female head of Chinatown in the United States." "Chinese Mary", whose true life story and age of birth are unknown, appears in Tombstone as Dragon's wife. She is plump and muscular. She often wears Tang suits with elaborate embroidery patterns and mostly silk brocades. She is gorgeous and outstanding, and wears many unique and rare jewelry. "China Mary" had a neat way of doing things. At that time, she handled all walks of life in Chinatown. Identity, contract, job search, salary, and shipping fare were all reviewed, introduced and approved by her. Without "China Mary" to contact and connect, it would be difficult for Chinese people to find jobs. During that time, she had a good and close relationship with the Six Companies in San Francisco and had frequent interactions. At that time, most Chinese people lived in the area from Third Street to Fifth Street in the town. The Chinese lived very closely together and dug basements in their houses to communicate with the outside world. Some basements were used as casinos and opium dens. There were also activity centers and Chinese guild halls for everyone to gather. In addition to running their own Can-Can Restaurant, Aaron and his wife also run a gift shop, an employment agency, a wholesale trading business, and also operate opium dens and red light districts. The couple's property is very considerable. In the eyes of white people, "China Mary" is like a queen. She takes care of all the big and small things in Chinatown. She was the "eldest sister" in power in Chinatown at that time. "China Mary" is a cosmopolitan and bold woman, with the spirit of a heroine and a kind-hearted woman. Many people who are sick and have no food to eat come to her door for help, but "China Mary" will not turn them away. There was once a white cowboy who fell off his horse and lost a leg. However, he asked someone to send him to a hospital and paid all the hospital expenses until the white cowboy fully recovered. "Chinese Mary" had a colorful life and was a sweet-tempered person who dared to love and hate. She once eloped with a blacksmith and was captured and imprisoned for a period of time.

What is even more incredible to Americans is that when the 67-year-old "China Mary" passed away on December 18, 1906, the public ceremony of her funeral caused a sensation. The data mentioned that the teak coffin of "China Mary" was parked in her home on Allen Street, and thin incense was lit in the house and placed on the table. There were roasted whole pigs, whole lambs, chickens, ducks, vegetables and fruits, and there were four men wearing hemp and mourning. They worshiped, burned incense, and chanted scriptures in front of the funeral all night long. All the Chinese women who came to attend the funeral were gorgeously dressed, with thick white powder on their faces and sad expressions. They wore jade, ivory and other accessories. A professional band plays elegy and keeps scattering large amounts of paper to ward off the "debt collectors" on the road to hell, lest the ghosts and monsters block the way of the deceased and successfully reach the paradise. After arriving at Boots Mountain Cemetery, the coffin was slowly lowered into the hole and buried. After the funeral, the good meat and dishes offered on the grave were also shared by the local residents. Her funeral was an eye-opener for the white people, and the people continued to spread and praise this strange Chinese woman.

We visited Tombstone in September 2015, looking for traces of "Chinese Mary". The town still retains its old appearance. You can still see the words Can-Can at the address of the original Chinatown. It can be seen that the influence of "Can-Can Restaurant" opened by Aaron and "China Mary" continues to this day. We also went to the original site of the house where Chinese Mary lived on Ellen Street and saw her photos and information. Whether this house can be protected as a historic site is not important anymore, because the entire town of Tombstone is an integral part of the history and culture of the province. On the occasion of parting, we went to the grave of "Chinese Mary" in Shoeshan Cemetery to bow and pay tribute to this woman who "will never return home until death."

You can still see the words Can-Can at the original Chinatown site

We went to the original site of China Mary’s house on Ellen Street

We are both from Zhongshan, and my wife paid tribute to China Mary.

In front of the tomb of "Chinese Mary" in Xieshan Cemetery, I bowed to this woman who "will never return home until death."